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Baruntse is located between in Everest and
Makalu in the eastern part of Nepal. Baruntse - the peak of
Barun, the
god of rain, is a prominent looking peak above the Khumbu/Chukung
valley (to the north-east), the Hinku Valley (to the south-west)
and the Barun valley (to the east. It was first climbed in
1954 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Jim McFarlane. The second ascent
took place only in 1980. Since then Baruntse has been climbed
many times.
On our expedition we will approach this beautiful peak through
the Hinku/Hongu valley. Two mountains passes, the Tsetrawa
La at 4,600m and Mera La at 5,200m, are crossed before Base
Camp is reached at 5,400m. Baruntse Base Camp is situated
in a beautiful meadow close to a small lake. Our climbing
route is along the south ridge of the mountain on which a
high base camp is placed at 5,800m. Next, an advance base
camp is set up near Baruntse’s West Col at 6,135m. This
is a very steep section of the peak and we will fix ropes
to aid our ascent and to prevent falls into crevasses. From
this camp we will follow the south ridge to the summit, with
two higher camps, at 6,420m (at the foot of the south-east
ridge, and at 6,650m. Tackling the 40 to 50 degree ice slopes
between base camp and Camp II and treading a knife-edged ridge
higher up offer an interesting climb to the summit. The summit
view includes the very impressive south faces of Lhotse, Makalu,
Chamlang, Kanchenjunga, and Peak 41 and down to the Hinku
valley. |