Trip Facts

  • Trip duration: 34 Days
  • Max Altitude: 7027 meter
  • Trek start form/Ending place: Islamabad
  • Best Season: Sep-Nov, Mar-May

Spantik Peak is known by various names all depicting different aspects of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers.

The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to within 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and huge plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the prominent Southwest spur.

Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite of climbers for training themselves for higher objectives. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some tough and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The view is absolutely breathtaking.

Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an excellent physical condition as well as regular practice are required to be on this expedition.


Trip Itinerary

Day 01 : Arrive Islamabad, transfer to hotel,for spantik tour.
Day 02 - 03 : Islamabad - briefing at Ministry of Tourism and prepration for Nanga Parbat expedition.
Day 04 : Drive to Chilas, overnight at hotel.
Day 05 : Drive to Skardu. Overnight at hotel.
Day 06 : Skardu- preparations and acclimatization.
Day 07 : Drive to Arandu, overnight camping.
Day 08 : Trek via Chogo Lungma glacier to Spantik base camp.
Day 09 - 25 : CLIMBING SPANTIK
Day 26 - 28 : Trek back from Spantik base camp to Arandu.
Day 29 : Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 30 : Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 31 : Drive to Chilas, overnight camping.
Day 32 : Drive to Islamabad, overnight at hotel.
Day 33 : Islamabad- debriefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 34 : Fly to onward destination.

Cost Included

  • Liaison with ministry of tourism in Islamabad for permit process.
  • Process of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.
  • Assistance upon arrival/departure.
  • Welcome reception (briefing)/farewell meeting (de-briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
  • Hotel accommodation at Chancery Guest House ( Islamabad), Concordia Motel (Skardu) and Panorama Hotel (Chilas) with all meals.
  • All meals during trek and 20 days at B.C.
  • Porterage of 50 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C and 25 kg per person on return from B.C respectively.
  • Road transfers between airport/hotel and within the city as per itinerary.
  • Sleeping tent, mattress, mess/kitchen with table/field stools and camping ground fees.
  • Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
  • Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and low altitude porters.
  • Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
  • Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc.
  • Letter of guarantee on behalf of team/client for environmental bond.
  • Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas except postage charges.
  • Reconfirmation of air tickets.
  • Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s) and any other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team).

Cost Excluded

  • Domestic air fare Islamabad/Skardu/Islamabad.
  • Airport tax, excess baggage charges.
  • High altitude porters/any crew above B.C.
  • Tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp including high altitude food and oxygen.
  • Medications ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
  • Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature.
  • Insurance liability of member(s) and other under force majeure conditions.
  • Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee or any other fee required to be paid by the Government of Pakistan.
  • Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and clearing agent’s charges.
  • Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet.

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